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Sonnenuntergang vom Hafen von Aegiali auf der Insel Amorgos, Bild: Constantinos Iliopoulos / shutterstock

The Cycladic island of Amorgos: solitude, cliffs and mule tracks

If you are looking for peace and solitude during your holidays, and want to combine the whole thing with wonderful summer weather and originality, the Cycladic island of Amorgos is the right place for you. There are neither large hotels nor other traces of mass tourism here. Less than 2,000 people live on the island, which is around 38 square kilometres in size. On the other hand, there are breathtakingly beautiful cliffs, rock monasteries worth seeing and fascinating hiking routes on well-trodden mule tracks.

The exciting entrance to the island

Amorgos can be reached by ferry from the Greek capital Athens, or from one of the larger Cyclades islands. Even the entrance over the emerald shimmering Aegean Sea is an experience. The ferries land alternately in Katapola and Ägiali. During the arrival of the ferries in Katapola, visitors have a fantastic view of the surrounding cliffs with their bizarre rock formations. Afterwards, it is worth stopping in the traditional fishing village. Directly by the sea, there are excellent restaurants where the fresh catch of the fishermen is tastily prepared and offered for sale. From the terraces of the restaurants, you can watch a tranquil sunset in the evening. The small village is winding, visitors stroll through enchanted and narrow alleys. The houses have been built, as on the rest of the island, entirely according to the Cycladic architectural style. Box-shaped snow-white houses, with blue decorations that can be seen occasionally, are lined up next to each other. After strolling through the village, a short hike should be taken to the excavation site of the ancient city of Minoa, which is located about three kilometers from the center of Katapola. A well-signposted hiking trail leads there. Minoa is located above the modern village. In addition to the exciting remains of a long-abandoned city, there is also a magnificent view over the bay of Katapola to enjoy.

A stroll through the idyllic island capital of Chora

Another highlight is a visit to the island’s capital Chora, which is sometimes referred to as Hora. The maze of alleys is even more convoluted here than in Katapola. In Chora, there is also a Venetian-style fortress that dates back to the 13th century. It is located high on a rock above the city. The best way to climb the fortress is in the evening hours, because then you can marvel at the setting sun in addition to the wide panoramic view over Chora. In the archaeological museum of Chora, which is open to all visitors, excavation finds from the island of Amorgos from the Minoan era are exhibited. A short walk east takes the adventurous to some traditional stone windmills.

The new Aegean crime novel by Peter Pachel promises you even more exciting experiences on holiday on Amorgos (>> Read the interview with Peter Pachel here).

Content: A pensioner is found dead in an old apartment in Berlin Charlottenburg. He was brutally murdered, and the circumstances of his death horrify even hardened detectives. The first clues lead to a small coastal town on an island in the southern Aegean. Filippos Panos, the police chief of Paros, is ordered to Amorgos to support the German-Greek team of investigators. What did the old man want there shortly before his death, after he had turned his back on the island many years ago? It quickly becomes clear that he was not only on the island for his vacation, and long-forgotten things become the focus of the investigation …

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On foot, over the Palia Strata to the Orthodox monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa

View of the Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa
View of the monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, Image: John Ilio / shutterstock

Palia Strata literally translates to “Old Road”. This trail, which is the most famous and also the most beautiful on the whole island, is an old mule track. From Chora, you hike over 14.5 kilometers to the Orthodox monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, which is known as the landmark of the island of Amorgos. The monastery complex, which stands on a 300-metre-high cliff, was built as early as the 11th century. The monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa is not only ancient, but even the second oldest monastery in all of Greece. There are 300 steeply rising steps leading to the entrance of the monastery, which makes the ascent very sweaty on hot days. On the other hand, the view over Chora from the monastery is phenomenal.

If you want to visit the monastery not only from the outside, but also from the inside, which is free of charge, you should adhere to the strict dress code of the Orthodox monks. Men and women must wear long trousers. For men these are long trousers, for women skirts. Ladies who are not skirt wearers, for example, can improvise with a long scarf that they wrap around their hips. In addition, the shoulders must be covered when entering the monastery. Afterwards we continue via Kapsala to the villages of Asfondilitis, Potamos and Aegiali. The hiking trail, like many hiking routes on the island, is considered difficult. The climbs are sometimes very steep. The ground often consists of narrow paths covered with scree. It is therefore advisable to wear good hiking shoes in any case. Depending on the season, it can also get very hot on the hike. Therefore, you should always take enough water with you. A hat and sunscreen should also be taken with you on the hiking tour.

The most beautiful beaches in Amorgos

The Cycladic island of Amorgos is not necessarily known as a classic beach holiday destination due to its many cliffs. But even here there are some beach pearls that are worth visiting. The beaches of Psili Ammos, Levrossos and Hochlakies are all hidden at the end of a narrow hiking trail. They can also be reached by boat from the water. Ideal for sun worshippers who love to be alone.